Peru Day 13 and 14: Lima and Larco

The next day was almost entirely consumed by our 8 hour bus ride to Lima. We were even almost on time! It was fun to watch the landscape change from mountainous to coastal, at least in between the worse waves of motion sickness.

For Amy’s last day in Peru, we visited the Larco museum, which is filled with Incan and pre-Incan archaeological artifacts. The storage area at the museum is open to guests so in addition to the regular exhibits, we could see the massive collection of pottery. There were entire sections labeled, “monkey,” “puma,” “fish,” etc with rows of nearly identical pots and sculptures.

Nancy taking in a small corner of the storage area

Other notable things included:

• The cloudy, humid Lima climate. I guess their winter is kind of like an extra-gloomy San Francisco summer.
• The delicious Arepas we found for breakfast. I guess they are Venezuelan and not Peruvian but they were excellent.
• The Pan-American games were being hosted in Lima while we were there so everything was even more hectic than the typical frenetic pace. They are kind of like the Olympics for the Western hemisphere.
• The hotel we stayed at was run by a Dutch woman. I guess I can’t escape them no matter where I go.

Peru Day 12: Back to Huaraz

The last day of the hike took us steeply down out of Santa Cruz valley. The landscape and flora were very different from the start of the hike, signaling that we had reached a much lower elevation, probably only 10,000 feet. I felt like superwoman with so much extra oxygen in my lungs!

Hendrik admiring the air plants

There were several species of air plants clinging to the sides of boulders and high branches of trees. It was amazing that they could anchor themselves basically anywhere.

Our final campsite

After exiting the Huascarán National Park, a van took us back to Huaraz where we had Pisco sours and one last dinner with our guide and chef.

The lower part of the Santa Cruz valley

Peru Day 11: Swimming in a Glacial Lake

This was our long but easy day; it was 21 km but almost all downhill or flat. Only the first bit going up to a glacial lake was uphill. I got warm enough on the way up that I yet again could not resist jumping in. It sure was an icy treat and by far the coldest water I have jumped into. After I popped up and stopped gasping, Amy said, “My phone just ran out of memory and I didn’t get any photos. You have to do it again.” So I did. We counted five bergy bits floating around keeping the lake extra chilly. And for anyone who is wondering, yes. Yes, it is Winter in the Southern Hemisphere.

Nancy scrambling for the shore before hypothermia sets in.

While I dried off, we watched a group of climbers on their way up Alpamayo (19,511 ft). They looked like tiny dots in a line, even with binoculars. It sounds like a lot of people go there to train for Everest. Our guide told us stories about guiding trips up Alpamayo and other Andean peaks. In contrast, the hardest part of our trip for him was coordinating food for one vegetarian, one lactose intolerant, one egg allergy, one gluten free, and two no pork. It was amazing they found anything for us to eat but it was all delicious.

Our hiking tour group at the lake. Why are they all wearing coats? They didn’t even go wading.

The rest of the hike meandered down Santa Cruz Valley with views of glacial waterfalls, streams, and lakes. Hendrik and I were both hiking in high-top hiking boots and were glad for the ankle support and traction. Amy on the other hand did the whole thing in old Nike’s and she didn’t use hiking poles either. She is a force of Nature.

Peru Day 10: The Punta Union Pass

The second day was the hardest day of the trek, at least for me, because it involved going over a high pass, Punta Union at 4750 meters (15,584 ft). Fortunately the switchbacks were wide and gentle so I eventually managed to drag myself and my very light pack to the viewpoint for a photo with Amy. I’m so glad I had hiking poles. That low oxygen concentration at high altitude is no joke. I’m also glad we took acclimatizing seriously.

Nancy and Amy at the highest point of the hike. Hendrik’s head is visible in the bottom left wearing a blue hat. He refused to get up and be in the picture.

The scenery was amazing of course, with tons of pointy white peaks and a few beautiful mountain lakes. Because our trek was supported by donkeys, we got three delicious cooked meals every day as well as yummy snacks. We ate our tasty lunch on the pass and then took a siesta in the sun before continuing down to the camp.

Eventually we coaxed him into posing by the lake.

The campsite had even better views of the mountains and a nice little mountain stream. I couldn’t resist the siren song of the water so I went for a dip. It was definitely the coldest water I’ve ever jumped into (at least it was until the next day of our hike).

Peru Day 9: Starting the Santa Cruz Trek

Our tour guide picked us up at 4:45 am to start the 5 hour drive into the mountains. First we passed a gorgeous lake and then started up endless hairpin curves to a pass. It felt like we had been driving toward the sky for hours when we stopped at the viewpoint to see the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán (6768 m or 22,204 ft).

Nancy and Hendrik in front of Huascarán. The clouds were feeling left out so they joined in too.

The hike started in Vaqueria, and wound its way through several other small mountain villages to the entrance of the Huascarán National Park.

We booked our tour on the Santa Cruz Trek with Eco Ice Peru, a company that also guides ice and mountain climbing trips and focuses on ethical treatment of the local communities and responsible caring for the environment. We were in a group of eight guests, a guide, the guide’s son, a chef, and a donkey driver. Of the guests, half were American, three were German, and one was Australian. It was fun hearing people chat in German, Spanish, and even Quechua.

Nancy and Hendrik warming up their legs for a long hike in the Andes.

Peru Day 8: Huaraz

After 17 hours of traveling, we made it from Cusco to Huaraz, a city located in Northern Peru between the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Negra (two mountain ranges in the Andes). It is the gathering place for travellers going on hiking and mountain climbing trips.

The first order of business was checking in for the hike and doing the orientation, after which we picked up some essentials for the hike (namely toilet paper, sunscreen, and extra water), and then found a cafe on the main square for some coffee.

The timing and choice of location turned out to be rather fortuitous because no sooner had my capuccino had arrived, than a parade started to go by directly in front of us, complete with dancers and marching bands! It was a procession to the cathedral celebrating the Copacabana Virgin.

The procession (parade) for the Copacabana Virgin

Huaraz has amazing views of towering white peaks along the Cordillera Blanca range. Between the scenery and the outdoorsy vibe, we concluded that Huaraz is the Talkeetna of Peru.

Nancy and Hendrik enjoying the view of the city and mountains from the hotel balcony.

Peru Day 7: Cusco

This was a bit of a rest/travel day. We slept in for the first time this trip and then had a relaxed breakfast on the hotel rooftop balcony overlooking Cusco, the old Incan capital city.

The must-see sight was the cathedral built on top of the site of a destroyed Incan temple. We were disappointed that there were no parts of the former Incan structure visible but some of the other features made up for it. For me, the two highlights were a silver-clad vehicle for processions and a painting of the last supper by a local artist. The silver car is a modern interpretation of carrying relics in religious processions. It looks like a massive silver table with a tower of silver. I wouldn’t have known that it was a vehicle if the tour guide hadn’t pointed out the steering wheel. In the painting of the last supper, the feast contained a guinea pig (or possibly a chinchilla), local fruits and vegetables, and chicha morada (a Peruvian drink made from purple corn) instead of wine. The best part though, is that Judas was given an uncanny likeness to the Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro.

Amy in front of the cathedral. Sorry, no photos were allowed inside

After visiting the cathedral we went on a little shopping spree to buy soft baby alpaca sweaters. Then it was off to the airport to fly to Lima, take a taxi for an hour from the airport to the bus station, and then a night bus to Huaraz for our hiking trip!

Peru Day 6: Rainbow Mountain

Our visit to Rainbow Mountain was our next big step for acclimatizing. We hired a taxi for the day to take us there and back (3 hours each way). Most drivers just wait in the parking lot while tourists sightsee, but our driver was adventurous so he hiked with us and said encouraging words when I rested. “Un poco mas,” and “la altitud?”

The hike wasn’t particularly long or steep, but the elevation was very high. The viewpoint for Rainbow Mountain is at 5036 meters (16,522 feet) above sea level. I struggled more than Hendrik going up, requiring breaks to catch my breath every 5 to 10 minutes, but Hendrik had a worse headache at the end. Amy, our veteran high-altitude hiker, seemed fine. We all did better than many of the other tourists who were hiking very slowly, hiring horses to take them the rest of the way, or throwing up by the side of the trail.

Amy and Nancy enjoying the views on the way up!

The view of Rainbow Mountain was spectacular but actually the whole panorama was breathtaking (not just because of the altitude and wind), including fantastic views of Mount Ausangate. Birds of prey soared overhead playing in the wind and several dust devils climbed the ridges around us.

Nancy and Amy at the Rainbow Mountain viewpoint

After the Rainbow Mountain viewpoint, we felt invigorated and continued to the Red Mountain viewpoint, with views of sandy red mountains on one side and snowcapped white mountains on the other.

For me and Hendrik, this was our first high-elevation hike and we are pleased to have survived with minimal symptoms of altitude sickness. I think the coca candies may have helped. Don’t worry, the travel clinic in Portland recommend them. Our taxi driver also taught us another local method for dealing with the altitude, which involves using Agua de Florida (a Peruvian cologne) like smelling salts. It also seemed to help but I’m not sure if it was because it required us to stop and catch our breath or if it actually did anything additionally helpful. It is supposedly used by shamans for many purposes such as purification and healing.

Peru Day 5: Machu Picchu

And now for the obligatory visit to Machu Picchu. We considered doing the Inca Trek or the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu but decided to do a trek in the Cordillera Blanca next week instead. The alternative is to take a train to a bus to the entrance. Or if you are feeling acclimated, skip the bus and hike the last leg. We were feeling adventurous so we took the train from Ollantaytambo at 6 am to Aguas Calientes and hiked the rest of the way up. The consensus seems to be that it should take 90 minutes to hike so I allotted 80 minutes to get there before our scheduled entrance time to Machu Picchu. Let’s just say that it was very strenuous and it took me 90 minutes. Amy’s phone said we climbed the equivalent of 130 flights of stairs up to an elevation of 8000 ft!

That said, it was all worth it. Machu Picchu really is spectacular. It is also extremely popular and therefore extremely crowded, which is why they have a limited number of entry tickets per day with fixed entry times.

Once inside, we hired a guide and set off on our tour. The guide was helpful for navigating, informing, and of course for taking photos! After learning about the architecture, astronomy, and history of the site and seeing it in person, I understand why it is considered one of the New 7 Wonders of the World!

Hendrik and Nancy at Machu Picchu! Huayna Picchu is the mountain in the background.

The city of Machu Picchu is built on a plateau between two mountains, Machu Picchu (old mountain) and Huayna Picchu (young mountain). The Moon Temple is built on Huayna Picchu and requires an extra ticket and hike to visit. Our guide told us that the path is very slippery and dangerous. She said a few people fall off the path and die each year and she thinks of them as modern-day, voluntary Incan sacrifices.

The Sun Temple was also very interesting. It has two windows, one that lines up with the sun at sunrise for the Summer solstice and the other for the Winter solstice. The temples are built from granite and the guide told us that at night, the moon reflects off of the quartz in the granite and the buildings glow!

The round building is the Sun Temple. The pictured window is for the Winter Solstice (June).

Peru Day 4: Archaeological Sites of the Sacred Valley

We flew from Arequipa to Cusco first thing in the morning where our taxi met us to takes us on a tour of the Incan ruins on our way to our B&B in Ollantaytambo.

First up was Chinchero which has a Spanish church built on top of old stone terraces. The most amazing thing about the old stone walls is that there is no mortar between the stones. Although the shapes are irregular, they are expertly cut to fit perfectly together.

Next we visited the salt mines at Maras Salineras. There is a salty hot spring that has been directed into a series of pools by little ditches that can be blocked or opened to allow water to collect and then evaporate. The salt water pools form a spectacular series of terraces. After they have shovelled out the salt, they refill the pool and the process starts again. The Salineras mines have been active since Incan times!

Hendrik, Nancy, and Amy at Salineras

From Salineras, we went to the nearby ruin of Moray. Moray has several circular valleys with concentric terraces. It is speculated that the terraces were used for farming research to determine at which conditions crops grow best. The whole Sacred Valley is very hilly so the terraces facing different directions at different elevations have different microclimates and therefore are suitable for different crops.

One of the “crop circles” at Moray in front of the Andes mountains

Lastly we visited the archeological site at Ollantaytambo, just a 5 min walk from our B&B. These were certainly the most impressive ruins of the day, with a sun temple, a military fortress, and a water temple with still- functioning fountains. We enjoyed walking along the high walls with great views of the beautiful valley.

Hendrik gazing upon the glorious site of Ollantaytambo

For dinner, Hendrik ordered the rocoto relleno, a spicy pepper stuffed with meat and vegetables. It is perhaps the most delicious thing we have tried here so far!